King penguins at Salisbury Plain along the coast of South Georgia Island. Canon 1Ds Mark III, 24-105mm f/4L IS (24mm), 1/800 sec @ f/13, ISO 200
The area known as Salisbury Plain on South Georgia Island (these British names… come on…for a land so rich in its own identity!) is home to a large colony of king penguins. And on this calm morning, enthusiasm was high to explore this expansive area filled with life. Thanks to Marlene Planck (that would be of Rod and Marlene Planck-a very skilled duo in the world of photography, tours and workshops), who offered to tend the skiffs offshore, it freed us up to sneak in a little photography. While standing on the long sandy beach filled with fur seals and king penguins, I felt that familiar, overwhelming sense come over me again. What do I photograph, there was so much happening? It reminds me of location assignment photography. You show up on scene, have a limited amount of time, and try to quickly assess the situation acting like you have an idea, when in reality, your real idea is “what am I going to do here”?
King penguins exit the surf at Salisbury Plain on South Georgia Island. Canon 1Ds Mark III, 400mm f/4 DO IS, 1/640 sec @ f/6.3, ISO 400
With staff responsibilities, time to photograph is like gold. The morning light, which had a sparkle to it, was beginning to fade along with that calm water that we rode ashore upon. I wandered around the beach a bit, finding it hard to settle into a photo groove. I decided to spend the bulk of the time near the shore, as opposed to going to the colony, which was a considerable walk away. These frames are among my favorites from that short morning. I say short because the winds decided to continue in speed as the minutes ticked by. It was not too long and waves were crashing on the beach and the ship was blowing the emergency fog horn signaling everyone to return immediately.
King penguins at Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island. Canon 1Ds Mark III, 400mm f/4 DO IS, 1/500 sec @ f/5.6, ISO 400
Now things started to get fun, sort of. Loading zodiacs in crashing waves in a snowstorm presents challenges that are self evident in this little video clip taken by Mark Rentz, one of the passengers who produced some very fine photographs along the journey (thanks for the clip Mark, I know you are off on another adventure already).
If you have followed this blog at all you have heard me mention Hugh Rose, my friend and colleague of many shared adventures. It is a good time to mention him again. Hugh is a veteran of the Antarctic landscape, and he filled the role of assistant expedition leader, and veritable beach and landing scout throughout the voyage. If ever I need a point man, you would hear me calling his name. Hugh is captain zodiac, a great skiff driver, save for the time at this beach when he drove the zodiac right into me while I was waist high in water and all I could do was hang on to the ropes on the bow and go for a ride. And that ride was not be underneath the boat! I’m slightly jesting Hugh, but only slightly. It is not Hugh in the video however, that is Ted Cheeseman, the excellent expedition leader himself. I’m the guy trying to spin the bow of the zodiac and then jumping across it to hold the opposite side. We got everyone off the shore successfully, and the wind, snow, waves and power of the ocean mixed with thousands of penguins and fur seals is just one more of those memories that will have a very long life in my brain.
This is my little Iphone video of the beach scene which I grabbed quickly in the soaking wet weather. You can see Ted incoming in the skiff and the Polar Star in the distance.
